Friday, March 16, 2012

TV 428 #3

In which things are going suspiciously well...
I marked the waist length adjustments and made a new muslin, just in time for Craft Day last Sunday. 
Marking the tucks on the dress form. 
Spreading out the muslin to get the waist length reduction onto the pattern pieces

On Craft Day, I got some fitting help (which, of course, I did not take pictures of). Really, with the waist length adjusted, I didn't need much. The pattern recommends making all waist size adjustments in the front darts, but when we took it all in there, it was too much. The side back seam, and side seems needed slight adjustments as well. 

The shoulder clearly extends far beyond my shoulder point, but my friend, Cricket, wisely suggested that I leave it alone and fit it by hand in the final version. I added about 2" of height to the sleeve cap because we think that I will have to take about that much off the shoulder. I want to be sure that I can fiddle with both the should width and the sleeve cap height as needed to get a smooth fit. Honestly, I think this may be one of the best pieces of advice I have ever gotten for dealing with my shoulder fit. Thanks, Cricket!

I decided that I was happy with the muslin fit, so I transferred the minor changes to the pattern and cut it out in the striped fabric. I put boning on the recommended seams, but I skipped boning the front darts because I could figure out how to attach them without distorting the smooth line at the bust. Also, since I didn't use interlining (the fabric is reasonably think and stiff), I didn't have a good way to invisibly sew in the boning channels on the front. 

I just used poly boning here. I tried to leverage the natural curve of the boning to support the waist curve.  Also, I first ran the boning all the way down to the hem (that pattern just says "hip line", which is not marked on the pattern). After trying it on I decided that I would cut it bak to about 4" above the hem line. 

Here is the final fit inspection before I started on the lining:
I think the bones went all the way to the hem in these photos. 
The front lapels are pinned together at the center front,  I was not pinning them out. 

I extended the back pleats about 1.5" so they would lay smoothly over the bustled skirt. 
Then I went about attaching the lining and making up the sleeves today. It all went well until I realized that the pattern does not allow one to put the cool cuffs on the 3/4 length sleeves.

Not to worry, I just made some bias ribbon, folded it in half, and used that as a finishing trim instead of a proper cuff. 
Ta Da! Problem solved. 
So here's the next-to-last stage of the project all ready to go to the next Craft Day for a sleeve fitting. Once the sleeves are set in, all it needs is buttons (famous last words...)

All ready for the final fitting!

No comments: