Wednesday, December 31, 2008

BWOF 11-2008-111 Red Wool Dress -- In progress

This dress is part of my PR Endless Combinations Contest entry. After I cut this pattern out, I realized that I have cut 1 or 2 sizes larger than I needed; however, that was before I realized that BWOF do not include seam allowances. In the end, at all worked out for the best. This was not a petite pattern, but my series of happy accidents generated a muslin that needed only minor adjustments. I'm keep this trick in my hip pocket for petite-ing BWOF patterns in the future.

TIP! Making standard BWOF patterns petite
1) cut one size larger than your measurements indicate
2) do not add seam allowances
3) sew your muslin as if you had already added the seam allowances
4) adjust your muslin as necessary. You still can't skip the muslin step, but this should leave you with only minor changes in stead of more serious redrafts.

muslin front

muslin back

Pattern Adjustments
I altered the armseye slightly and raised the front waist a tiny bit

In progres...

Simplicity 4059 UPDATE

My dad loved the costume. He wants to get a hat and everything. :)

Here is is modeling. Very handsome.

New Look 6163 Skirt

In my ongoing self-education attempts, I took a class at G Street Fabrics on making a pants sloper. In this class I learned the following interesting facts:

  • I need two small front waist darts to get over my pooch
  • I should not use back wait darts, which helps accommodate a slight sway back
  • my center line is farther back that most patterns. This is caused by my swy back and proportionally fuller abdomen

I haven't yet tried pants with this new sloper, but I was able to take this new knowledge and apply it to New Look 6163.

Here is the technical drawing of the skirt:

I noticed that by switching the front and back pieces, I got my standard adjustments with essentially no effort. I cut a size 14 out of the front (original back) and I size 10 out of the back (original front) in hopes of adjusting the center line.

I made a muslin and was pretty pleased with the results:

muslin front

muslin side taking pictures in a closet by oneself is hard... this explains the strange posture. I also disregarded the lapped zipper instructions that came with the pattern in favor of those on the zipper package ad I was very pleased with the results.
Notice how the side seam lines up better with my center line at the waist.

muslin back

I was so pleased with my initial adjustments that I went straight on to the fashion fabric. I got this fabric for free(!) from Gus Woolen in Baltimore. I had purchased a bunch of other wool and this piece was only 3/4 yard. I was determined to use it; however, because it is 100% cashmere. In order to fit the pattern on, I had to change the fold. Now the very subtle herringbone goes horizontally instead of vertically, but it still looks and feels FABULOUS!

I decided to use the left over fabric from this high concept, but only partially successful project. I only had one yard left, which was not enough to truly showcase the lovely print. The colors coordinated nicely, which makes me happy, even if I am the only one who will ever see it. The silk was not as wide as the wool and due to a layout blunder on my part, the lining is significantly shorter than the skirt. After an initial wearing on Christmas Eve, this turns out not to be much of a problem. The lining is still long enough to keep from riding up.

I went a little nutty with the finishing, but it was worth it in the end. The cashmere was so wonderful to handle that I didn't mind working through some Ugly Betty episodes while catch stitching all of this.

The cashmere was thicker that the muslin, so I could have used about 1/8" extra for the lap, but it still came out OK.

These aren't the best finished photos I have ever taken, but they'll have to do. The hem smoothed out considerably after hanging and I second ironing.