The first muslin
For the first muslin, I decided to work with the pattern completely unaltered. There were some issues, but waist length was NOT one of them. I did take a picture from the front, but it was tragically out of focus.
|Muslin #1: back view|
I thought about what changes to make and I decided on the following adjustments:
- raise the bust line 1"
- remove the outer lacing bones for low back comfort
- also for back comfort, widen the back hip gore
- reconsider boning placement
I was so pleased with the way the first muslin had turned out, that I decided I was ready to move on to the final version. I went with a double layer corset, so I would not have to mess with channel tape. After carefully aligning the gores and triple stitching them (you can tell this was my mistake), I started adding bones and testing for the best placement.
|Placing the side bones along the seam didn't solve the original problem and now put considerable pressure on the top of my hip. Also, you can see that the front stands well away from my body.|
|The next day, I decided to sew the front gores closed, just to see if that helped at all.|
|Laying more smoothly in the front now. In the back, things are still unpleasant.|
|The pinkest line on my hip is where the top of the gore was cutting in. Ouch!|
Transition to the Third Attempt
As much as I had wanted the second version to be the final version, it just wasn't going to happen. I decided to mark my waist line and hip arc right on the corset so that I could make a more careful decision about where to place the gores.
- add 1" just at the waist (+1/4" on the back and side seams)
- move the waist grommet up so that they are centered on the waist line
- move the back gore opening 3/8" towards the center back
- widen the back gore opening 1/4" at the top
- remove the center front hip gore
- add a small gore and the side seam
- move the second front hip gore forward 1/4" so the front seam was no longer right on top of my front hip
- remove 1/4" from the center bust gore
- go back to a single layer corset.
I made the changes listed above. I followed Semptress's excellent advice on single layer corset building, and went to town.
|I used a buttonhole stitch length to reinforce the gore points.|
|I added bones one at a time, searching for the right combination of support and wrinkle smoothing. I really like the tree-like effect I got on the front. That totally happened by accident.|
|There's still some room in the front, but it's very comfortable when I'm seated.|
|In the end, I had to run some boning over my hips to smooth wrinkles at the waist. These wrinkles were both unsightly and really uncomfortable when they bit into my waist or pinched my skin in a fold.|
I have been wearing the finished version for about 5 hours now. I've been mostly seated. I'm am getting a little sore around my floating ribs and the muscles at my low back are uncomfortable, but nothing it unbearable as it has been in previous versions. I have laced to 26", but I intend to lace to only 27" when I am wearing costumes, so I am hopeful that this would relieve some of this discomfort. There is still a little extra room in the bust gores, and I think that I am willing to call that a problem for another day. Steampunk Gettysburg is only two weeks away, and I have more sewing to do.