Today I started on TV 216 for the mourning costume.
|Concept drawing from the Truly Victorian website|
Since I've had good experience with the TV skirt patterns in the past, I decided that I would simply start with the pattern without alterations. [correction: I am shortening it by 2". Rather than do this at the recommended lines, I'm simply taking off two inches from all hems that reach the floor. It's a small adjustment, so I felt I could handle it. It also meant that I didn't have to trace the pattern, I could simply fold it back to the size I needed. There are no complex curves to this skirt, so it was easy to fold under.]
The center front section is comprised of two flat under pieces (the front and side fronts) overlaid with two pleated apron layers edged with trim.
I made my own trim out of two layers of silk topped with some cord & velvet trim I had in my stash. It took my a while to figure out how I wanted to make the trim. After some experimentation, I figured out how to use my gathering foot. This is a genius invention. Here's a link to how to use it from the Bernina website. In order to get the gathering to work with the two layers of the stiff silk, I had to set the stitch length to maximum and the bottom thread tension to maximum.
|Ooohhh... Aaahhh! Fancy trim!|
I just got the front section done today. The trim is a time consuming endeavor, so I calling it a night for now. Here are photos of the current progress.
|This looks a bit strange because it's pinned to the hoop skirt.|
|Looking good so far...|