McCall's 5480 Winter swing coat

This was my second attempt at making a swing coat for this winter. It feels odd to be making a winter coat when it is 95 degrees outside, but I know that I will soon have to return to a hectic schedule and I don't want to bank on finishing an unfinished sewing project come November.

This pattern got great reviews on PatternReview.com and so I was hopeful.

Due to the shape of the raglan sleeves, I did not attempt to adjust them for my shoulder slope. Due to the fact that this is a tent, I didn't bother raising the waist or making a full bust adjustment.

I am tickled pink with how it turned out. I used a wool/cashmere blend I got last year at JoAnn's on an early spring winter fabrics super blowout, sunback lining, and a 3/4 yard double-sided silk satin from Thai Silks in Los Altos, CA. I picked up the remnant at least 2 years ago, but it might have been even longer.

I pattern does not call for contract cuffs, collar, and buttons, but I thought it would be a nice way to subtly spice up the blackiety-blackness. That pattern went together very smoothly and accommodated the fabric and lining which were slightly heavier than the recommended weight with ease. Even the collar went on right the first time, which might be a sewing first for me.

I also created fabric covered buttons for the first time and I was amazed at how well the little Dritz mold worked. It was $2.19 well spent!

And now... the pictures. I took my dressform outside because black clothes just do not photograph well inside.





trim details:




The lining...

Fabric swatches

I wrote an entire chapter of my dissertation in the last 24 hours, so I'm allowing myself a little time for fun.

Here are the fabric swatches purchased from the incredible G Street Fabrics. As you can see from the price tags, their fabric is high quality, but not cheap. I have ordered swatches from other online sources and I will post those as soon as I receive them.

On a side note, I'm still learning about the digital camera that I got for Christmas. I mucked up the settings and only got good color representation in a few photos. The ones I present here have been pretty heavily Photoshopped. You'll just have to take my word for it that all the outer fabric is very much in the navy range. I'm posting these pictures to show the different weights and drapes that I am currently considering.

Clearly, the poly robes are trying to reproduce the weight and drape of good wool crepe. The problem with that is that since these robes get worn almost exclusively outdoors in late spring, wool crepe may not be a good idea. I reserve the right to decide that it's too beautiful and that I will suffer for a few hours a year for the sake of a good costume. I think anyone who makes costumes for themselves to wear at special events can get behind this idea.

wool crepe $29.95/yd




silk crepe (I'm not sure which this is)


4-ply silk crepe $69.95/yd




3-ply silk crepe $49.95/yd


silk charmeuse $29.95/yd (I would use the crepe side as the face)


silk crepe de chine $24.95/yd


Novelty Textured Linen (light weight) $29.95




Light Weight Linen (just over hanky weight) $23.95/yd




Trim and lining fabric. I purchased the black silk/rayon velvet for the trim (I still need to get the gold braid). I have 7 yards of this true blue silk habotai that I can use for the lining. It also just occurred to me that only the sleeves really need lining fabric, so I bet that I have a few other things in my stash which would work too.