Monday, May 27, 2013

Truly Victorian 410 (1873 Polonaise)

I had hopes of getting this one finished in time for Steampunk Gettysburg back in March, but I had trouble fitting the sleeves, so I had to wait until Steampunk World's Fair to wear it.

The polonaise was a pretty standard construction process for a Truly Victorian pattern. First I had to shorten the bodice about 2 - 3" just above the waist. I'm just that short-waisted.

Then I had to adjust the shoulder slope because my shoulders are rounder and more forward than their designs. I also adjusted the armscye  seam significantly. The original design has a slightly dropped shoulder, but even preserving that design element meant a significant adjustment.

I didn't have to adjust the skirt length at all. I did the original fittings using a small bustle, but in the end I wore it with the Grand Tournure. I didn't notice any drastic length changes in the back and the bodice still fit nicely over the larger bustle. I used a TV underskirt designed for the Natural Form era (no bustle), but I hemmed it with a bustle on, and I was able to make it work. I usually have to shorted TV skirts about about 4 or 5", so I have enough to work with without having to add any extra length in the back.

Here are some photos of it on the dress form:
I changed the neckline a little and lined the lapels with the same navy linen I used for the skirt. 

This smaller bustle looks overwhelmed by the task at hand. 

I used navy silk gorgette for the trim around the back pleats. I  gathered it about every 2". 

I made "bows" at the elbows by arranging loops of the silk and tacking them in place. 

I used gathered, unhemmed strips of silk for the longer sections of trim. I attached them of a strip of narrow antique lace for contrast when I moved. The silk was such a close match to the skirt fabric that I didn't want that detail to entirely disappear. 

I lined the sleeves with the navy linen from the skirt. This lining only extends just past the elbow. I wanted to keep this garment cool and I wanted to reduce bulk in the armscye. 

Here are a few pictures from SPWF'13. I've got the whole package together here with some hair and makeup help from friends and the larger bustle.

1 comment:

Marian the Librarian said...

This is wonderful! I'm sorry I missed seeing you at SPWF! I think I will be using the same pattern for an outfit I want to put together for SPWF 2014. You may be hearing from me again,as I think I'm much more of a beginner than you, so I may shout out for help!