The polonaise was a pretty standard construction process for a Truly Victorian pattern. First I had to shorten the bodice about 2 - 3" just above the waist. I'm just that short-waisted.
Then I had to adjust the shoulder slope because my shoulders are rounder and more forward than their designs. I also adjusted the armscye seam significantly. The original design has a slightly dropped shoulder, but even preserving that design element meant a significant adjustment.
I didn't have to adjust the skirt length at all. I did the original fittings using a small bustle, but in the end I wore it with the Grand Tournure. I didn't notice any drastic length changes in the back and the bodice still fit nicely over the larger bustle. I used a TV underskirt designed for the Natural Form era (no bustle), but I hemmed it with a bustle on, and I was able to make it work. I usually have to shorted TV skirts about about 4 or 5", so I have enough to work with without having to add any extra length in the back.
Here are some photos of it on the dress form:
|I changed the neckline a little and lined the lapels with the same navy linen I used for the skirt.|
|This smaller bustle looks overwhelmed by the task at hand.|
|I used navy silk gorgette for the trim around the back pleats. I gathered it about every 2".|
|I made "bows" at the elbows by arranging loops of the silk and tacking them in place.|
|I lined the sleeves with the navy linen from the skirt. This lining only extends just past the elbow. I wanted to keep this garment cool and I wanted to reduce bulk in the armscye.|
Here are a few pictures from SPWF'13. I've got the whole package together here with some hair and makeup help from friends and the larger bustle.