I let out the side seams 1/8" (for a total expansion of 1/2"). That was good, but not enough.
I was going to let out the center front, but, of course, I had already clipped it. Instead, I let out the darts 1/8" (for an additional 1/2"). Things were definitely looking better, but I wanted to be extra sure that I had enough room for the buttons, so I let out the centerfront/front side seam 1/8".
This brought me up to a total of 1 1/2" extra ease in the lower rib cage area and I think I have enough room for buttons now.
I also marked where I think I would like to expand the armsyce, but I have actually cut it out yet. I'm going to try basting the sleeve in and see if it feels better. This also might help me solve the rotation issue I was having.
I didn't take any pictures because the visible qualities of the bodice haven't changed at all. One fitting note though:
now that the bodice is no longer "skin tight" the curved seams are more flexible and I'm reconsidering adding boning. Also, I noticed that the back waist is starting to creep up above my natural waist. (This makes sense, since I lopped off about 1.25" at the neck when I did the shoulder adjustment) I am little stuck about what to do about this. It's tempting to just take the back pieces in at the waist, but this might destroy the ease I just added.
Proposed next steps:
Step 1: fix sleeve fit at the armscye
Step 2: fix sleeve length
Step 3: install final version of sleeves
Step 4: add buttons, so I know that I will be able to close the bodice
Step 5: make the skirt. I dont want to make any more bodice adjustments that will effect the waist circumference (adding boning, or taking in the back waist) until I know how the skirt will change the way the bodice sits.
Once I have the skirt done, I think I will be in a better place to decide about further changes to the bodice.
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